Mitoki

Some diners look forward to Mitoki’s mixed rice with sansho-jako and Manganji peppers every time they visit Kyoto. The menu describes it as rice topped with large Manganji peppers grilled and steeped in broth, then paired with house-made chirimen sansho. It can take centre stage as a dish in its own right, or be shared to round off a meal after sampling a few obanzai dishes and sashimi.

Obanzai can be ordered as an assortment of six small dishes, or chosen individually. Options include ebimo taro with yuba sauce and tomatoes steeped overnight in second-dashi broth. The assortment is a good way to sample a little of Kyoto’s local produce; if you already have favourites in mind, ordering à la carte gives you more say in how to build the meal.

For a dish between courses, try dashimaki tamago, served in a generous amount of dashi, or fried ebimo taro that has been simmered until tender. The egg dish is served with its broth, while the taro is described as a Japanese-style potato fry; each brings a different character to the table. To accompany a drink, there is sea bream dressed with shuto and sake, or tako to Kujo-negi no teppae, made with octopus, Kujo spring onions and fried tofu in house-made mustard vinegar miso.

Diners have praised the wide selection of sake and enjoyed trying different varieties, making it possible to choose a glass to go with each dish. One diner who tried the generously cut sashimi recalled how its flavour made them want a warm sake. The sashimi menu also offers a small assortment of five varieties, with two pieces of each, intended for two people. It suits a small party keen to try a range of food and drink.

For a more substantial finish, choose dashi chazuke with sea bream, tiny fish or mentaiko, or rice topped with chicken soboro, mushrooms and spring onions. Desserts include mitarashi dumplings with a hint of white miso and tiramisu ice cream made with rich mascarpone. One group dining at the restaurant also remembered the warm, bittersweet syrup served over vanilla ice cream.

Private rooms are available, and the restaurant can accommodate groups. One guest who attended a welcome party for a group of nine or more said they enjoyed the food and desserts. If you are planning a group meal, it may be worth considering a reservation.